I know you’ve done this …You set your fabric under a bright light, taken it outside, folded part of it over to compare sides, examined the holes in the selvedge, wishing and hoping they will help direct you. And still, you’re not sure which side of the fabric is the face side. With eyes glazed over, you finally decide to just pick a side and be done with it. But wouldn’t it be nice if we had some clues?
Finding the right side of printed and textured fabric can be a bit easier to figure out if you know what to look for. Clearly, if you have a digitally printed fabric the design will be on the face side of the fabric. The wrong side of the fabric will usually be white with some of the print visible.
A jacquard or brocade can be a bit of a challenge, but thankfully both sides of the fabric are usually quite beautiful. The face, or right side of the fabric, will usually have the brighter more distinct design. You may decide to use both sides of the fabric in your garment perhaps using one side as an accent such as in piping, or as a design element where the sleeves and bodice pieces highlight the different sides of the fabric. Since both sides coordinate, it can be quite stunning and a true designer’s touch to make use of the fabric this way.
What about solid fabrics? At one time the small, tinter holes running along the selvedge could help you choose the right side of the fabric. Some would determine the right side of the fabric as the side with the raised-up tinter hole. Since practices differ among manufacturers, we really can’t rely on this method any longer. However, a little knowledge can help us figure things out.
When working with textures such as twills, napped or piled fabric, raised or puffed designs, ribs, cordings, or slubs, the more textured side is usually the fabric face, or right side of the fabric. When working with twills, twill lines run to the right along the lengthwise grainline in wool and silks. Cotton twill lines may run in either direction so, pick the side you like and stick with it throughout your project. It is a bit easier to determine the right side of a twill-like gabardine since it will only have lines on the face of the fabric.
For fabrics with a textured design element, examine the fabric to determine the direction of the design. You will then cut your pattern out according to the nap direction guidelines, all pattern pieces should be laid out in the same direction. This ensures that pattern design of the garment, when sewn together, will be in the same direction.
On fabrics such as velvet and corduroy you will notice that when you run your hand up or down the length of the fabric it feels different. Running your hand up the fabric, you will notice more resistance and the fabric appears darker. Most choose to lay out the pattern on the fabric so that the nap is smooth as it is heading down towards the hem of the garment. However, that isn’t a steadfast rule. Whichever direction you pick, make sure you are consistent throughout your project and layout your pattern per the nap directions guidelines on your sewing pattern. Otherwise, it will look like you were using two different fabrics.
If you are working with a solid linen or a silk shantung or dupioni you can choose either side, but it is a good idea to choose the side with fewer imperfections as the face side.
Tailors will often make it a practice to mark the fabric on the wrong side with tailor’s chalk to avoid confusion. Of course, test out your marking tool so that you know it will not leave a permanent mark on your fabric. In fact, it’s a good idea to use white chalk on white fabrics. Whatever method you choose, be consistent so that you develop good sewing habits that will help you create garments you love!
]]>Convinced you should make a muslin? Perhaps you're wondering just what is involved. Do you just sew a sample garment up and go from there or is there more to it? To achieve good fit, there are a few tips and resources you will find helpful before you make your muslin.
One of the most important things you can do is learn about fitting if you want to tackle any adjustments with confidence. If you have been sewing for some time you may already be aware of your fitting issues but aren’t so sure where to start, how to truly identify the problem area, or what you need to do to make the adjustment. Since it can be overwhelming, I wanted to compile a list of some of the resources I have used and found to be quite helpful when it comes to fitting.
My favorite fitting book is “Fitting & Pattern Alteration – A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting and Alteration”. This is a fabulous resource where you will find there is more than one way to make a fitting adjustment. The illustrations are clear, the instructions are simple, and there is a good enough amount of white space to keep you from getting overwhelmed. This book is an excellent reference as you become more familiar with fitting issues and want a resource to quickly explain the needed adjustment.
Another good book is “The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting, by Sarah Velben. It has large format color photos of real people and it will take you throughout the fitting process, from measurements to muslin! This really is step-by-step instruction. I recommend that you read through it first and then use it as your guide to fitting your muslin.
“Kenneth D. King’s Smart Fitting Solutions – Foolproof Techniques to Fit Any Figure” is designed to help you “read the wrinkles in the fitting process, decipher the message, and fix the fit.” His color photos of actual fitting sessions on varying body types will help you identify the fitting problem and learn how to fix it!
Craftsy, a creative crafts online membership has some wonderful classes on fitting by some of the best sewing experts. Here are some of my favorites:
Lynda Maynard’s class, Sew the Perfect Fit
Linda Lee’s class, Fitting Solo From Measurement to Muslin
Jenny Rushmore’s class, Full Bust Adjustment for Any Pattern
Kathleen Cheetham classes:
Custom Fitting: Back Neck, & Shoulders
Adjust the Bust: The Complete Guide
Plus Size Pant Fitting
While it may seem random to include a pattern making academy, understanding patternmaking really is essential to perfectly fitting your sewn garments. For instance, you may see that you are having fit issues but don’t really know how to tackle them by yourself. Would you like to be guided by a professional to get you through the process?
Tricia Camacho is the energetic and highly skilled professional costume designer of Creative Costume Academy. She offers one on one help through her interactive pattern community The Pattern Place, where she “teaches you all the foundational skills you need and then teaches you to draft garments from start to finish including fitting and hacking”.
This is a dynamic resource where Tricia conducts regular Q&A’s and walks you through your fitting and pattern-making issues, conducts live sessions both on FaceBook and Instagram. She hosts industry leaders in live sessions, hosts workshops like a recent bra-making session with Nikki G of @SewingM Style, padding a dressform taught by @brooksanncamper, and more.
Tricia regularly runs the bi-annual, and free Fit-abulous Fit Bootcamp, a five-day fitting bootcamp! Learn fitting order and how to make fitting adjustments no matter your body type. Not only will you learn where to start with your pattern and fitting adjustments, but she has broken down her system to 5 simple steps designed to conquer your fitting issues.
I had the pleasure of attending the bootcamp and joining the Pattern Place and found that link between understanding patterns and how to make pattern adjustments in relation to fitting issues to be a lightbulb moment. Tricia’s course provides the standards that work and simplifies the fitting and pattern adjustment process.
She is currently planning her next bootcamp for Spring of 2024. Join her email list to stay informed.
Gina Renee Designs has many free resources available on her website along with a book on fitting. I do hope to review it soon. What I have seen is very promising!
Some of her free resources include:
Free Top Fitting Guide
How to Use A French Curve
Free Pant Fitting Guide
Across Shoulder Fitting Guides – Narrow and Wide
Small and Full Bust Adjustment Guides
In-House Pattern Studio lead by Alexandra Morgan “teaches experienced sewers and budding pattern makers how to make and adjust patterns for fit and style.” She shares professional techniques in women’s apparel pattern making and pattern fitting as it relates to In-House Sewing Patterns. The courses and tutorials include free resources and paid courses. If you join her email list, you will have access to regular free tutorials. Her latest series is Developing a Handmade Wardrobe. It is packed with pattern work, fitting advice and regular practices that will help you in fitting and sewing your handmade wardrobe. Presently I receive her newsletter and enjoyed her free resources and tutorials but have not taken a paid course.
Free Downloads include:
The Perfect Fit Guide – A Step by Step Guide to the Fitting Process
The Good Fit Checklist – What Good Fit Looks Like
Fitting Photos – How to Take Fitting Photos
Mini Pant Block Pattern – Practice Fitting Pants
Mini Block Pattern Set – Mini Patterns for Practice
Mini Torso Block – Mini Patterns for Practice
Courses include:
Fitting Essentials – How to Make Sewing Patterns Fit You (Enrollment just closed but this course will be back in 2024 and you can be added to her waitlist.
Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block
Pant Fitting Foundations -An Advanced Framework for Fitting Pants (The next session is February 2024 the waitlist is open).
Your local or the national American Sewing Guild is an amazing resource. Many local groups organize sewing retreats and host classes conducted by well-known sewing teachers. Many of the sewists have years of experience and are a wonderful resource of knowledge.
If you love couture you have no doubt, come across Susan Khalje and have been blown away by her many articles in Threads Magazine. Did you know she has a sewing club held on FaceBook? Take your skills to the couture level where “fellow sewists share knowledge, projects and stories about all things related to sewing”. Gain access to videos taught by Susan, such as the Classic French Jacket, discounts on her sewing patterns and other products, and she regularly has fun giveaways! Best of all Susan and SKC members are very active and comment on the sewing and fitting issues you are working out. Her members include many sewing and design professionals and beginners to the couture method of sewing. I have been a member for years and it is a wonderful resource. You will learn quite a bit from the comments and photos on fitting and couture techniques.
Facebook Groups:
There are several FaceBook Groups you can join where members are active and provide some outstanding advice on fitting issues. This is perfect for seeing real fit issues and getting an idea of how to solve them. Here are a few I like:
The Great British Sewing Bee 2023
The Fold Line
In-House Pattern Studio
Sewfari Divas (Hosted by Claire Shaeffer)
If you prefer an in-person class, you may like any of the following:
https://www.lyndamaynarddesigns.com/in-person-workshops
https://susankhalje.com/pages/other-classes
https://www.kennethdking.com/copy-of-events
We hope this list of resources will be helpful in finding a place to start when it comes to fitting your muslin with great success. Perfecting a good fit takes time. Be patient with yourself and most of all, don't give up.
When you take advantage of any of the resources listed you are going to learn quite a bit. It can be especially helpful if you join one of the FaceBook groups since you will see members working through their fitting issues and you will learn so much from the comments and the photos. Before long, you will be able to identify fitting issues more readily and be able to adjust your sewing patterns accordingly.
If there are resources you have used that you would like to recommend please add them in the comments section.
Until next time… Sew something fancy!
Jacquelene
*Fancy Frocks Fabrics is not affiliated with any of the above resources. We just love finding some of the best resources to make your sewing successful!
]]>Why bother making a muslin? There are some strong opinions among home sewists for and against making a muslin. Some feel it is a waste of time, others wouldn’t make a garment without making one first. Impatience just might steal your glory if you want to sew a well-made garment and skip making a muslin.
If you are contemplating whether you should make a muslin, follow along as we list eleven reasons why you should consider making them before you cut into your fashion fabric and what it can help you accomplish!
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Beautiful fabric, the perfect pattern, and that sewing machine is just calling you! Right about now you may be so excited about your project, thinking you should just go for it and sew. It will all work out. Why bother making a muslin? There are some strong opinions among home sewists for and against making them. Some feel it is a waste of time, others wouldn’t make a garment without making a muslin first. What’s your take on making a muslin, or test garment?
If you are new to sewing and aren’t familiar with the term muslin, also known as a toile, it is a test garment made from plain cotton cloth or linen. If you watched the film “Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris”, you would have seen them in the Dior workroom – plain, natural colored cloth used to make a mockup of Dior’s designs. This inexpensive cloth, which by the way is also called muslin, is used so as not to detract your eye with a busy pattern and to properly evaluate the fit and balance of a garment.
Designers are known to make several muslins before they finalize their design. In fact, they wouldn’t dream of working without them. It is a tool in the workroom where the designers’ drawings begin to take shape and can be adjusted, transformed, and fitted to perfection.
If you are contemplating whether you should make a muslin, follow along as we list 11 Reasons Why You Should Make a Muslin Before You Sew Your Fashion Garment!
Have you thought about what makes you unique? No matter our age or whether we diet or exercise, we have different body shapes. Look at any model on a runway and each of them have a different body shape. There are differences in height, torso length, bust fullness, shoulder slope, hip circumference…and the list goes on.
Making a muslin allows us to focus on our unique body and assists us in manipulating a pattern to enhance our individual shape. Make it a thoughtful process where you give yourself the opportunity to flatter your figure.
You just can’t limit the fit of our bodies to a standard! Patterns are designed with a particular figure in mind. Perhaps then, Jenny Rushmore of Cashmerette Patterns was right when she said in the “Sew Mindful Podcast”1 that the “ideal person doesn’t exist”, in reference to body shape, and that “patternmakers are being taught to make a decent average.” This makes sense since there needs to be some baseline, however there are common fitting issues that seem to be as she says “typical” and include “forward shoulder, swayback, larger bust cup size, and for plus size women, high back waist, lower front waist and tilted waist.”
Pamela Leggett of Pamela’s Patterns adds perspective to the issue of pattern fit in her interview on the “Sew Mindful Podcast”2 when she said that commercial pattern companies develop their patterns with the following figure in mind, “A slender 14-year-old figure with a small bust…even as the sizes get larger it is still the same type of figure. It is not changing for what a larger size person looks like … plus size commercial patterns add only one inch to the bust, waist, and hip.” I agree with her when she says this “doesn’t reflect well.”
Fortunately, both women have created patterns to address our real bodies. However, even if we are purchasing patterns that address our particular fit, it makes sense to make a muslin and check the fit of the garment.
The process of creating a muslin allows you to evaluate the fit, balance and ease of the pattern. You will see clearly where and if you need to make adjustments. When you add balance lines to your muslin, you ensure everything is level and that you have worked out the correct length in the front and back of the garment.
Today we have a wonderful assortment of indie patterns available. Most often, you will find that a pattern designer or pattern company has a different approach and do not always follow the same standard. Some list the finished pattern measurements instead of the standard body measurements, without ease built in. In this instance, making a muslin will help you determine the amount of ease you are comfortable with along with other fit adjustments you may encounter.
As mentioned earlier, some pattern companies do target specific fit issues straight out of the package and others design for curvy or full figures. This may help you get a head start on fitting your pattern, but you want to be sure the adjustments work for you.
Sometimes the problem is the pattern. Have you ever chosen a pattern only to be surprised by an element you could not clearly see in the line drawings or model pictures? Years ago, I was sewing up a shift dress and decided to forgo a muslin. It was a simple pattern. So, I went ahead and made my flat pattern adjustments as I really couldn’t imagine that I would need to make any further corrections to the pattern. What I hadn’t realized was that the dress had an awkward fullness at the center front skirt portion that just didn’t look right. I decided to go back and take a closer look at pictures of the dress on different blogs and there it was, that awkward fullness. Lesson learned. Sometimes, the problem is the pattern. Had I made a muslin I wouldn’t have been disappointed by this pattern problem and would have fixed the problem.
Adjust your pattern fit without fear because you are not marking your fashion fabric. When you choose to make a muslin, you have the freedom to mark, pin, cut and readjust. So, not only are you taking the guesswork out of things like shoulder and back adjustments, hemline placement, sleeve length and neckline depth, and the list goes on but, you have the freedom to play with the adjustment. Now, you see the result of the adjustment immediately, and can quickly decide what looks good on you.
Any mistakes are where learning happens, skills are honed, and it’s where our “Aha” moments are born. Taking the time to create a muslin is certainly a creative learning process and will build your skills. We grow, learn, develop, and remember these skills by working through them. Take the time to evaluate and learn how to make fitting adjustments. This is how you grow your skill set!
I am always a bit hesitant to try a new style. I tend to stick to what I like and shy away from trends. Yet, the statement sleeves that have been popular this year have me rethinking. What about you? Are there any new styles or trends you want to try? Before you commit in the fashion fabric, why not try it out in a muslin? You’ll be glad you did!
Have you ever wanted to alter the pocket placement, change a waist or neckline, or add trim to embellish your garment? Creating a muslin is an opportunity to be the designer! Why not play with some of your own design ideas? Now that’s fun!
We all love our fabric stash. Sometimes we wait months before we find the perfect pattern for a favorite cloth. We know what it deserves, and we want that fabric to shine. Or perhaps you have finally found the perfect fabric for a pattern you have been longing to make. The search took some time but now, everything you envisioned is in your hands and all that is left is to start cutting. Not so fast. Think about how many of your unfinished sewing projects are just sitting in your bin because you didn’t like something about it. Cutting into that beautiful fabric you purchased before you make a muslin is risky and could end up being expensive. When you do go ahead and make that muslin you save your money, your fabric, your time, and in the end, a little heartache. Need I say more here?
Wouldn’t you rather hone your skills on a muslin? If you are just learning a new sewing technique, method of construction, or are sewing up a challenging pattern, making a muslin is a great opportunity to learn, practice, and perfect a new technique. You will have no regrets or surprises by making your sample garment first.
When you make a muslin, you build your confidence because you learn fitting skills and how to apply them. There is an understanding you gain through this process which really must be experienced to understand fitting. You will be training your eye to recognize issues and before long you will be able to identify them clearly. How about that to boost your sewing and fitting confidence!
No doubt making a muslin is key to creating beautifully fitting garments that bring you joy, and you will never regret what you have learned in the process. Not only that, but it may just change your self perception. Jenny Rushmore revealed that for her, the right fit in a garment “affects your self-esteem” and “changed her perspective.” That’s a win-win in my book! We all deserve to look and feel great in the garments we create, and that’s the point, isn’t it?
So, will you make a muslin the next time you start a new pattern? Take the process step-by-step, invest in some good fitting books, learn fitting order and how to apply changes to your pattern. Most importantly, don’t give up. You will never regret the outcome if you keep at it.
If you would like to add your tips to our list, please add them in our comment section!
1 Blakemore, J (Host). (2020, November 14). Sew Mindful Podcast Episode 016: The story of Cashmerette with Special Guest Jenny Rushmore
2 Blakemore, J (Host). (2023, September 30). Sew Mindful Podcast Episode 066: Expert Fitting Tips with Special Guest Pamela Leggett (Pt 1); and (2023, October 07). Sew Mindful Podcast Episode 067: Expert Fitting Tips with Special Guest Pamela Leggett (Pt 2)
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As sewists we tend to be tactile in nature so choosing a fabric from an online source can present challenges for us. So, how do we know we are making a good choice when purchasing fabrics online? The good news is you can come away with a wonderful selection of fabrics if you know what to look for and have educated yourself.
It is helpful to think about the fabrics you feel comfortable in and what would suit the purpose of the garment you are sewing. This will help you narrow down your fabric and pattern choices as you will have the most success when you consider them in tandem. I would call this thoughtful sewing, as the time you spend now in the planning will make sewing your garment so much easier, and the finished garment something you love. This really doesn’t take very long to do, and it will help you avoid fighting the fabric to work with the pattern. That’s no fun.
This article will focus on what to look for in the fabric description and photos online. We’ll address why you should consider the fabric recommendations on the pattern envelope as a guideline, not a rule. And how the sewing pattern photo can help you choose a fabric.
Since many start out with a pattern in mind, it is probably helpful to talk about this first. Many patterns will have recommended fabrics listed on the back of the envelope. Sometimes the suggestions make sense and sometimes they don’t. In those cases, we can look at the suggestions as a guideline.
There are times when the suggestions seem to just list the fiber content and not the weave of the fabric. (We will talk about fiber and weave more extensively in another post). This can be confusing if we aren’t familiar with the various types of weaves available and what we can expect from them. For example, the skirt pattern pictured above lists suggested fabrics as lightweight wools, rayons, denim, linens, and cottons. While that is helpful to a degree, you may find this list lacking and feel a bit lost. What we can take away from the suggestions is that lightweight natural fibers are recommended. So, what to do next?
Some Questions Worth Asking
Let’s look at the photos on the front of the pattern envelope below. Can you identify the types of fabrics pictured? Is the garment fitted, or is it a looser fit on the model? What about the drape of the fabric? Does the fabric appear to be standing away from the body, or is it draping closer to the body? Do any of these fabrics appeal to you? Would you feel comfortable in the fit of the garment pictured? Are there any soft folds or pleats in the pattern? These are some of the questions you will want to ask yourself when choosing a fabric for your garment.
In our pattern example, the design of the skirt is a basic A-line pattern with the option to place the fabric on the bias if desired. The A-line style stands away from the body at the hemline. Are you comfortable with that? Do you know how you can control how much it stands away from your body? There is the option to cut the fabric on the bias, that will be more form fitting. Your choice of fabric will also determine how far the fabric will stand away from the body. For instance, you will see a difference in how a denim will hang on the body vs. a wool crepe vs. a crisp cotton.
In our example, the skirt has an attractive biased overlay that makes for a very nice design detail however, we can see that the overlay is optional and could potentially add bulk. If you decide to incorporate the overlay, consider a lighter weight or thinner fabric. A lightweight fabric with some drape will lay softly against the body here. If you want to create a bolder design element, choose a crisper fabric that will stand away from the body a bit. Either way, you will want to consider how the fabric for the overlay will work with the fabric you have chosen for the body of the skirt and how comfortable you will be wearing it. Developing an eye for these details will help you enjoy the process, as this is where you are the designer.
Our model is wearing a plaid suiting. Suitings come in various fibers, weight, weaves and textures so, you will need to keep that in mind. I just love how the overlay contrasts with the skirt fabric. The overlay and skirt are made from the same fabric, yet the bias cut of the overlay drapes beautifully and creates a nice contrasting design feature. The other skirts pictured may be rayon or wool challis, a lightweight denim, linen, and cotton. Other fabrics that would work well would include: a tropical wool, wool crepe for a dressier look, a gabardine would drape nicely, chambray, a moleskin or lightweight faux suede would also be attractive. If you have a stash of fabric, take a moment to become familiar with weight and drape by holding the fabric to up to yourself or your dress form. For this particular skirt pattern, look for soft folds in the fabric for an attractive look.
Keep in mind that there are specific patterns for knits and woven fabrics, and you really would not be happy with the result if you chose a fabric and disregarded this information. The pattern will sometimes indicate that it is designed for knits. If it doesn’t, check the recommended fabrics on the back of the pattern envelope. The only exception might be choosing a stable knit like a Ponte for a woven pattern. If a stable knit is recommended on the pattern envelope, then you can feel comfortable selecting it.
Couture and designer fabrics, fancy laces and sequins, fine wool basics and gorgeous 4-ply silks, there are so many lovely fine fabrics available online for today's sewist. So, are you ready to start shopping? Typically, you will find most of the information you need to know in the fabric title and descriptions and what isn’t said can be more clearly seen in the fabric photos.
The fabric title will often include the fiber, color, and weave of the fabric ie., light blue cotton sateen, or French Blue silk shantung. The description will provide more information to include content, width, weight, care, stretch, and usage of the fabric.
Once you know the fiber, weight, and usage of the fabric, you can begin narrowing down which fabrics appeal to you. It is a good idea to develop the practice of examining the fabric photos with a thoughtful eye. Learn to assess the photos to determine how the fabric body and drape will work with the garment you are making. Let's explore this further.Our online boutique typically includes a close-up photograph of the fabric, a picture of the selvedge, the fabric draped on the dress form, the fabric swirled tightly, if the fabric has a print there will be a photo of it with a ruler, and then we include a photo a bit further away on the form.
So, what can you take away from these photos?
A close-up is great since you will get a closer look at the weave, colors, and pattern of the fabric. We include a picture of the selvedge because it can give you an idea of the fabrics thickness, it helps demonstrate the fabric body, and sometimes it stands out as a design feature that you can use in your project.
The fabric on the dress form has quite a bit of information for you too. First, you get to see the scale of a pattern or print, and you also get a glimpse at how the fabric lays on the body. This is the information you need to determine if the fabric will hug the body or stand away from the body.
When you look at the other photos on the dress form that zoom out, examine how the fabric is draping. Is it forming several smaller soft cones or are the cones falling fewer, wider, and stiffer. To achieve the look of the design and function of the garment, you’ll want to pay attention to these photos to achieve the look of the garment you are sewing. The soft cones falling closer to the form mean you will achieve a softer drape, while the stiffer and wider cones will stand away from the form. This means the fabric will stand away from your body. These pictures also show the fabrics transparency or opaqueness.
Does the garment you are sewing have soft folds or crisp pleats? If so, you will want to look at the photos where the fabric is swirled in a twist. This is done to give you an idea of the fabric body. Look at how crisp or how soft the edges are and how close the layers of fabric are in the twirl. If your project has pleats, choose a fabric that is close together in that swirl and appears a bit crisp. If you want soft folds, you’ll be able to discern this if you see that the fabric can gently drape into folds from this picture.
Assessing the information and photos on the pattern envelope and comparing it with the fabric descriptions and photographs online can help you narrow down your fabric choices. You will have a better idea of the fiber, drape, and weight you will need to help you achieve a pleasantly fitting garment you will want to wear for years to come.
I hope these suggestions will help you develop an eye to make an informed fabric choice. Make it a practice to apply these tips, you'll be happy you did! For our more experienced sewists, feel free to share this post with your less experienced sewing friends.
Until next time...sew something fancy!
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Selecting the fabric for a project can be one of the most exhilarating choices we make or, we may be stuck and not know where to start.
To help you in your sewing journey it seems fitting to provide some advice, resources, and additional information about fabrics that will help you choose wisely.
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When we are motivated to sew something new, looking at our favorite designers’ latest trends or perusing all the new sewing patterns of the season is a great start to get our creativity flowing. Selecting the fabric for our project can be one of the most exhilarating choices we make or, we may be stuck and not know where to start.
To help you in your sewing journey it seems fitting to provide some advice, resources, and additional information about fabrics that will help you choose wisely. Today’s blog is designed to get you started with advice that will help you along the way and aid you in creating your own resources. Our future posts will discuss various terms used when discussing fabrics, what to look for when selecting a fabric online and how the fabric description and pictures can help you make a smart fabric choice. We will discuss why particular fabrics are chosen as a guideline on a pattern and the qualities these suggested fabrics have that enhance and/or work with the pattern.
While pattern companies give us some guidance to follow when selecting fabrics, you already have some easily accessible resources close by that can help you become more familiar with fabrics. For instance, when was the last time you paid attention to the fabrics right in your closet? And who doesn’t love window shopping? Try browsing a favorite designer’s shop now that things have opened again.
Whether you are looking through your closet or out shopping, take some time to look closely at the fabric used in your favorite garments. The fabrics used in high end ready-to-wear can give you some good ideas in what fabrics to choose for your next project. They give a tactile sense of what to expect from different types of fabric, what blends of fibers work together well, how the fabric feels against your skin, and how the fabric falls on the body. Sometimes it can even make us keenly aware of what we don’t like in a particular fabric. More than anything it will acquaint you with getting a sense of why a fabric was chosen for a particular garment and what to expect from your fabric choices.
I think one of the best resources for a sewist is a fabric journal. If you have a healthy fabric stash you can start one now. There are also fabric swatch books, my favorite is Julie Parker’s Fabric Reference Series. It is a Fabric Dictionary and Swatchbook that is out of print now, but the books can sometimes be found on eBay or Amazon. The books are “All About Wool”, “All About Silk” and “All About Cotton”. I did contact Julie Parker to find out if we might see a reprint and she says she is working on it. I for one can’t wait to see it!
Check out our free downloadable fabric journal sheet on our Resources Page. It will be a great resource to start your own fabric journal. If you have not joined our VIP Club yet why not join today. All members enjoy 20% off their first purchase, have early access to new arrivals, specials, and sales.
Until next time…Sew Something Fancy!
]]>Part 4: Sewing Knit Fabric- Sleeves, Hems and More!
While I prefer a sleeveless garment, there are some techniques I like to use when sewing in sleeves. For a knit garment, I highly recommend sewing your sleeve using the flat lay technique and not in the round. The sleeve cap in a knit pattern is not usually designed to have a ton of ease built in. Take advantage of this and let your feed dogs take up the needed ease in the sleeve. You will find that this method gets the job done beautifully.
Don’t be afraid of knits. Continue to practice and get a feel for sewing up different types of knit fabrics. You’ll be glad you did!
We would love to see what you have sewn up using these techniques. Please feel free to comment or follow us on Instagram and share what you've created.
Our last post discussed techniques, tools, and practices to help you sew knit fabrics. We're moving along in our series discussing additional tools and techniques to help you along.
Today's blog post is part three in a series of four, to help you sew knit fabrics on a standard sewing machine. Ready! Let's go!
Part 3: Sewing Knit Fabric: More Tools and Practices for Successful Sewing
Have you been practicing various zigzag stitches on your knit fabric? If you have been using a regular foot on your machine and haven't changed your tension settings this may have been a bit of a challenge. But, if you attached your walking foot on your machine, you're ahead of the game! And, for my first tip this week:
I can't believe we've only one post left in this series. We hope our tips are helping you along in sewing up some of your gorgeous knit fabrics. And don't forget, we have a lovely collection of designer knit fabric be sure to check it out!
Keep your eye out for our last post in this series:
Part 4: Sewing Knit Fabric- Sleeves, Hems and More!
If you ever have a question about one of our fabrics we will be more than happy to help! Just shoot us an email: contact@fancyfrocksfabrics.com
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Our last post discussed five tips in choosing both fabric and pattern, and some best practices. Today we are moving ahead with conquering this favorite fabric. With a bit of practice and a few techniques, you will be sewing knit fabrics confidently.
One thing to keep in mind is that depending on the fiber content, knits shrink and sometimes the shrinkage is significant. So, if you don't already, make it a practice to perform a test prewash on a small fabric swatch. If you notice a difference in the size of the swatch, do another prewash to test it further. You will be amazed at how much you will learn about fabric by doing tests like these and also taking the time to practice working with different fabrics.
Ok, let's get started with part two in a series of four to help you sew knit fabrics on a standard sewing machine. See the next 5 tips to keep you going!
Part 2 – Sewing Knit Fabric - Tools and Practices For Success!
We hope you have found Part 2 of "How To Sew Knits" tips useful. We can't wait to share more. If you are looking for some designer knit fabric be sure to check our collection.
Here's a line up of what we will be posting next in this series:
Part 3: Sewing Knit Fabric: More Tools and Practices for Successful Sewing
Part 4: Sewing Knit Fabric- Sleeves, Hems and More!
Don't forget, if you ever have a question about one of our fabrics we will be more than happy to help! Just shoot us an email: contact@fancyfrocksfabrics.com
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Sophisticated, chic, elegant, knit fabrics are not only comfortable, but todays knit fabrics are stunning. Have you fallen in love with this fabric but just haven’t been brave enough to try it out? Don’t let the stretch of the fabric steal your confidence. With a bit of practice and a few techniques you will be conquering this fabric in no time.
Keep in mind that there are a variety of knit fabrics and it is worth getting to know more about them. Since I am writing a post and not a book, I think it's a good idea to look up information on the particular knit fabric you favor most. There are plenty of good fabric books that have in-depth information. I recommend: Sewing With Knits, by Connie Long.
You will want to develop a system to keep track of the right and wrong side of your fabric, tape or sticky notes work great for this. Be sure to lay your pattern out as you would any fabric that has a nap. There are techniques to find grainline which are different than finding the grainline in woven fabrics. In a future post I may discuss that a bit more with photos or maybe even a video.
Today's blog post is part one in a series of four to give you some best practices when sewing knit fabric on a standard sewing machine, not a serger. Enjoy the first 5 tips we have compiled to get you started.
Part 1: Our first 5 tips to get you started!
We hope you have found our first five tips useful. We can't wait to share more. If you are looking for some designer knit fabric be sure to check our collection.
Here's a line up of what we will be posting next in this series:
Part 2 – How To Sew Knit Fabric -Tools and Practices For Success!
Part 3: How To Sew Knit Fabric: More Tools and Practices for Successful Sewing
Part 4: How To Sew Knit Fabric- Sleeves, Hems and More!
Don't forget, if you ever have a question about one of our fabrics we will be more than happy to help! Just shoot us an email: contact@fancyfrocksfabrics.com
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You may wonder what in the world quilt making techniques and couture sewing techniques have in common. While they may differ, both require precision and, in the end, present creations of pure artistry.
A common problem both communities of sewists face, and have mastered, is getting seams to align properly. If you’re a perfectionist like me you probably hate it when you are off, especially after you thought you nailed it.
When working with joining a bodice to skirt or inserting an armhole, it can be a bit tricky to match those seams, but it’s not an impossible challenge. To avoid pulling out the dreaded seam ripper, I have found some useful tips that have really made a difference in nailing seam alignment every time. Follow the combination of techniques below to meet the challenge.
Voila, perfectly matching seams! I hope these techniques help you match those seams and avoid the seam ripper. I’d love to hear how it works for you.
P.S. If couture sewing is an interest be sure to check out Susan Khalje’s website: www.susankhalje.com for couture patterns, classes and sewing club. Her website and sewing club is a favorite of mine.
Until next time, sew something fancy!
]]>Now I love fabric... all kinds, obviously. But, I have learned that you need to know what to expect of the fabric before you start your project. For instance, I fell in love with a fabric and could just envision how I was going to turn this fabulous piece of cloth into something to be cherished, maybe even envied.
Nope! I let my love for the cloth blind my better senses and kept moving forward with what I wanted to be fabulous. I didn't listen to the voice in my head saying, 'really...you think this is gonna work?' So, after pushing forward and ignoring that voice, I finally got to the place in the sewing project where after hours of work when there are just a few more things to do, I say hey, 'let's check our fitting.' Let's see how things look and then, (drum roll please), ehh, ugh, hated it! (But I learned a lot in the fitting aspect right? I tell myself.)
I didn't choose wisely. I let the passion for the cloth overtake my better judgement (Deep down I know you've been there too so stop nodding your head in disapproval ;).
When we don't know our fabric, it can make or break us, zap our confidence and make us think we just aren't as good a sewist as we thought.
Thank goodness there are resources available now to help us on our sewing journey. There are books, experts, videos and other resources that will tell us how a particular cloth will hang or drape, if it is a better choice for fitted article rather than a flowy one and so much more.
I can't wait to share some of these resources, in future posts, that I have found most helpful.
Until then... sew something fancy!
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